I scheduled this surf launch in the BASK newsletter, but very few people came. It was cold and windy with an overcast sky. People don't like showing up for a kayak event that is almost guaranteed to get you wet. The waves were large, over 10 feet, and this scared away more people. The only hearty kayaker who showed up was Roger Lamb but the two of us dressed to get in the water anyway.
I was in my Pirouette, a river kayak, that I bought for playing in the surf. Roger had recently found a used Pirouette so we were both in identical small boats. I had taped a skeg, sort of a fixed rudder, to the bottom of my boat to make it track better on short trips. But this skeg caught the water and made the boat turn sideways in the surf. I eventually landed and ripped it off to make surfing easier again.
We worked our way out into the choppy water between the big break over the sand bar and the milder break on the beach. Roger says that when he watches me surf, he sees me lean way back in my boat until it looks like I'm laying down on the back deck. To me it feels like I'm standing upright on the foot-pegs and just trying to lean back to keep the boat from nosing down into the trough in front of a wave. Neither of us had very much luck catching waves so after only an hour of hard work we quit, got back in warm dry clothes, and had lunch.